For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
Hi,
For all of you who are trying to make some decisions about buying Kyosho DRX I will try to write some pros and cons of this car.
pros:
- It's a real rally car, not like all of those on-roads like FW-05, V-Rs, etc.. with Subaru Impreza body and a slick tires etc.
- DRX was made from a buggy kind of car so it's ready to go off-road, it's also good for tarmac, but in my opinion best place for it is a gravel and some dirt (dry dirt if you don't wont to do a 5 hours cleaning after run).
- It have a nice engine GXR-18 (it's not a true small block, and not a big block as well, just like this car - it's not a 1/8 and not 1/10 ... its a 1/9).
The engine is enough to create some rally experience, it's easey to tune and easy to start (with pull-starter).
- It's a solid construction, I saw some kind of a crash test of it, when one of DRXes was accidentally hit by a 1/5 scale Petrol monster-truck at high speed on a local track.
- All shafts are made of some kind of metal (but be careful when buying a RTR kit, I saw few with bended drive shafts), so it's very hard to brake it.
- Receiver and batteries are hidden in a plastic case so it's safe to go dirty.
- Differentials (there are 3) are making great job in this car, even in RTR out-of-the box car.
- There are two disk brakes and you can set how much force of braking you will get on front and rear wheels independently (just like a real car do).
- It's a great looking car (maybe except Lancia Stratos body, but it's my opinion)...
- Fantastic engine sound
cons
- I have not found anything major, but be careful with READY KITs, before buying one take a look on shafts (all should be straight). Don't run it before checking if tires are properly glued to the rims, If not ask seller to glue it precisely, or do it yourself. With tires not glued fine to the rims you will risk braking the tire. /tires are expensive/
- throtle revers spring is way to soft and it doesn't work at all. /not big deal 3$ and you can get a proper one or spend more money and buy a fail-safe/
- The golden carburetor (see pic.) screw is poorly secured, so pay special attention to it and examine it after/before every racing session. If it will unscrew (and believe me it will) use some silicon sealant /special one/ (add very little - think little and then divide the imagined amount by 9
If some day your are unable to start your engine or your engine do strange things I might be this screw.
- Batteries are well hidden, but putting cover on battery box is a nightmare. also you have to be very careful when putting batteries inside the box. You can easily brake cables.
- I have found something nasty, after having lot of Kyosho cars I thought that this kind of "mistake" will not come from Kyosho.
GZ-15 by Kyosho (used in Fazer)
GXR-28 by Kyosho (used in Inferno GT)
GXR-18 by Kyosho (stock engine for DRX)
On first picture we see some sort of rubber band (not sure how to call that part so I have marked it red), same goes for the second picture. This rubber parts prevent dirt (dust) to get into carburetor, but hey! There is no rubber band on DRX GXR-18 engine...why?? It's a rally car, isn't it? Why Fazer (street car) got one, why almost all other carbs got this protection but gxr-18 not?!
I have no idea why...but I can tell you that this is major. I have almost crashed my DRX once and did some injuries to my friend who was sitting next to race track because of that lack of this rubber thing. Dust went into carb, then mixed with fuel become a sticky, muddy something and when I was at full throttle, my carb got jammed (blocked) and ... my DRX went of the track at full speed with almost no way to even turn because of bumpy terrain.
But even without some extreme situations that may happened its very sh**y that you have to clean carb after every rally session, and pray not to ruin your engine with lot of dust that will get into combustion chamber...
Solution:
I will come back with some solution soon, I hope... Maybe someone knows how this rubber is called by professionals, I would like to buy one and try to mount it, but it might be tricky... Any ideas are more then welcome.
If I recall anything will add....
cheers
P.S.
If you have any thoughts or questions please d not hesitate and write it here or start a new threat.
Last edited by Truman; 05-24-2011 at 01:05 PM. Reason: adding more info...and have some more to come...
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
Im interested in buying a drx. Just wanted to know if the drx is easy to run in. ive noticed with some nitro rc's they are a pain in the ass when it comes to running in the engine for the first time. another question i wanted to ask. whats the reliability like.? your help would most be appreciated.
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
Hi,Originally Posted by Josho
Yes it is easy to run, I have had a Kyosho TR-15 Rally, few Kyosho FAZERs, some Kyosho FW-06 and some of other brands and the DRX is one of the easiest to run for me. I'm not sure what do you mean saying "running in the engine", If its about starting the engine it easy, If you are asking about braking the engine Its also easy (but its easy in mainly all models).
About Reliability...Its a fanatastic car, I have two DRXes and one was crashed few times (huge crashes) /throttle return spring didnt work/ and after some repairs (didnt brake any part
Thinks you need to be worry about are:
- Transmiter and Reciver (better think about something better and go for some 2,4Ghz, If you need something cheap go for DealExtreme: $60.94 FS-GT3 2.0" LCD 2.4G Wireless 3-CH Gun Transmitter with Receiver for R/C Car and Boat (8*AAA)) / I have one and its very good/
- Throttle return spring is to soft and it dont work at all so If you will stay with any Reciver/Transmiter without built-in failsafe go and buy some harder spring or a external failsafe. (FS-GT3 form dealextreme has a failsafe so its a good choice).
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
thanks for the help
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
Oh, and pay attention to tires, they used to glue it very poor, So take all wheels of the car, check if the tires are glued good to the rims and make some corrections (use CyanoAcrylic glue - the one for flexible connections, U can use something like this one Cyanoacrylate Glue | Flexible CA Glue 1 oz , just remember it have to be flexible glue, otherwise your tires will become hard and brittle) and tires are expensive so take care about that. In my opinion is good to find some alternative wheels (in similar size) with some cheaper option for tires. You will have to change tires sooner or later and Kyosho DRX tires are too soft and expensive.
Other thing is screws: Buy some anaerobic glue (the one which works when is out of oxygen - like this one Loctite 242 Threadlocker Anaerobic Adhesive Glue - 10ml) Loose all screws a little bit (specially the ones which are screwed into metal parts like engine mounts etc.) then add some threadlock glue onto screw thread and then screw it back into place, it will prevent screws from screwing out by engine vibrations.
If you buy RTR kit do it like I suggest above, If you buy a disassembled kit use threadlock glue with screws during assembling. Its some extra work to be done but its worth it. Loosing some screws may ruin your rally day.
cheers
PS.
If you will have any other questions do not hesitate to contact me here.
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
Hi, i m new here and i just buy a drx a few weeks ago , i already change the radio controller and get a 2.4 with a fail safe, i also change the shock absorber oil because the car were not very easy to drive the absorber were too smooth. I plan to put a digital servo for the direction and a tune exhaust.
The only things that seems to be difficult to fine is tyres for this model. any suggestion please, i am searching slick tyres for tarmac racing because these tyres seems not very good for tarmac racing ? which model can i put on this model because 1/9 tyres seems impossible to fine !
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
You should go for a 12mm HEX to 17mm HEX converter, you can find it on ebay.
Than you will have endless choice of wheels and tires....
The diameter of original wheels with tires is about 97mm so you can go for something between 92 - 105 mm (in my opinion).
If servo is a stock one it is digital.
Tuning exhaust is a good idea as far as you know principals of how nitro engine and exhaust work. If you will need some help about general theory of exhaust tuning just ask...
cheers
Last edited by Truman; 09-20-2010 at 01:14 AM.
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
Thanks for the quick reply, no i don't know exactly which exhaust system is appropriate for my engine. i just want it to react quicker because it takes time to take rpm. I don't plan to change the engine at this time. Just servo, exhaust, and tyres. Can you give me good advise what to choose ? Someone propose me an Orion exhaust, but i am looking for a good novarossi sideline exhaust .
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
Hello guys.
I bought a couple a weeks ago a DRX from someone, it's already fitted with a 2.4ghz radio and it's in a really good shape.
It runs well, but it seems to me that it over-steers too much compared to others seen on youtube.
Can the toe-in angles be wrong, or maybe the central diff is not adjusted and it doesn't have enough traction on the front wheels?
Any ideas?
Thanks
re: For all who are thinking about buying Kyosho DRX - UPDATED 05-24-2011
hi guys...
I was out o business for a while but know Im back again and will try to figure out something in yours situations.
dj end.
I will send you on PRV some scans from very nice book about nitro engines that you will be able to figure out what to do with exhaust. About quicker response you can try to change the clutch, and you can make some mixture adjustments.
What kind of nitro are you using, brand and % ?
Norc.
toe in/out in case of a rally car. I think its all about what road you are driving, if you need good cornering I would go for a little toe-out. second thing is to take a look at suspension settings, Its good when car is a little lower in front then in back, but only a very little, oh and don't set suspension too high or too low by adjusting spring , always try to keep axis (dogbones) as parallel as possible to the ground (it don't have to be totally parallel but remember that too much slant can kill your cups and even brake dogbones) , do some adjustments then push your car to the ground completely and let it come back to normal position, then take a look on axis. Oh and try to brake a little before taking a hard turn
Last edited by Truman; 01-03-2011 at 04:22 AM.
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